Peptides are all the rage

Peptides are all the rage – one browse through Sephora or CVS will show dozens of different products and brands containing peptides. But are they right for your skincare routine?

Peptides are proteins, plain and simple. Proteins are made up of building blocks called amino acids, and peptides are basically small proteins made up of 50 amino acids or less. Some peptides are common household names: Ozempic, Botox, Insulin, and Oxytocin, to name a few.

When in skincare products, they work by doing one of four things: signaling the body to grow or change (ie make more collagen), preventing your nerves from signaling as often (ie Botox-like effects), stopping your body from breaking down certain substances (ie prevent collagen from being degraded), or helping to transport various substances and cellular contents where they need to go (ie help move copper into cells that are growing or repairing).

So, how does this relate to skincare, antiaging, or pre-juvenation? Well, these special proteins have been found to stimulate collagen production, prevent collagen breakdown, reduce skin creasing, and even increase hair growth.

Here’s your ultimate guide to peptides in skincare products.

 

Peptides that signal the body to grow or repair:

1. Matrixyl 3000(c) – this is a branded combo of two peptides, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. Together they stimulate your skin to produce more collagen. In fact, some studies have shown nearly a 40% reduction in facial wrinkles when applied twice daily for 8 weeks.
2. Copper Tripeptide – This is one of the smallest peptides and has an easier time absorbing into the skin. It’s been shown to be a “collagen equalizer” – if you’re lacking collagen, it will help build it; if you’ve got too thick of collagen fibers (like in scar tissue), it helps thin them out. It also can stimulate wound healing in chronic wounds, such as diabetic or ischemic ulcers. This is also a carrier peptide and can facilitate the movement of Copper into cells.

 

Peptides that act like Botox

1. Argireline: this is the branded name for Acetyl Hexapeptide, and products containing this ingredient are often touted as “Botox in a bottle”. But don’t get too excited – results aren’t that dramatic. Studies show a decrease in wrinkles by about 17% when applied around the eye skin for one month (Botox could have an upwards of 90% wrinkle reduction in comparison).
2. Leuphasyl: another brand-name for Pentapeptide-18. It’s often combined with Argireline for synergistic wrinkle-reducing effects. Applied with Argireline, you might find up to a 25% wrinkle reduction around the eyes.

 

Peptides that inhibit breakdown of skin substances

1. Soy: this is commonly found in skincare products and is the star of Aveeno’s brand. It’s found to reduce collagen breakdown (so you’ve got more of it). But that’s not all – it can increase the hair diameter of terminal hairs, ie the ones on the head, beard area in men, eyebrows, and eyelashes.
2. Silk: it’s not just a luxury fabric. It’s got some skin-lightening effects by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is similar to how hydroquinone lightens the skin.

 

Luckly we’ve got you covered at Vivida dermatology with high-quality products that contain peptides, right in our medical spa. Look for Alastin’s regenerating skin nectar; Alto Advanced Defense and Repair serum, InterFuse Intensive Treatment LINES serum, Alto Defense Serum from SkinBetter Science, and Epionce Intensive Nourishing Cream or Luminous Eye Serum.